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Restaurateur Kevin Delk never does annihilation by the book. His aboriginal three creations, Two-Fisted Mario’s, Mario’s Double Daughters Salotto and Beatrice & Woodsley, all accept a faculty of whimsy in their names, backstories and ambient — and they all accept a blow of DIY belief that hints at behind-the-scenes basic guns, hot cement and paintbrushes. So the alone affair unsurprising about Delk’s latest effort, Bang Up to the Elephant, is that it’s abounding of surprises.
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The restaurant, which opens to the public at 1310 Pearl Street on Saturday, January 27, is called afterwards a Victorian-era adage that agency “well done” or, as anglophiles like to say, “spot on.” But there’s annihilation Victorian or British in the affair or decor, which uses cinder block and close plants to accord the consequence of afresh unearthed Mayan charcoal (making it somewhat evocative of the “Interior Garden” art accession at Denver All-embracing Airport). Lighting in shades on the violet-indigo-blue end of the blush spectrum add a amiable vibe, but the blow of the adornment is so all-embracing that it defies accessible description. Shanty-town windows acceleration aloft the kitchen, a bank of decrepit bottle separates the dining allowance from the advanced antechamber (which will serve as an aerial calm patio and all-day coffee bar), and whitewashed beams arc over the bar, giving it the feel of a backyard gazebo.
Delk explains that the abode was already home to the Mercury Cafe, but that it has been boarded up and abandoned for added than a decade — a time back it cloistral alone squatters and pigeons. The alveolate amplitude is acrimonious in the winter by ultra-efficient heating coils abeyant from the beam and cooled in the summer by evaporative coolers, which will add abundant clamminess to accord the hundreds of central plants (which are appealing baby appropriate now) a advantageous growing environment.
The menu, overseen by controlling chef Travis Messervey (coming over from Beatrice & Woodsley), additionally diverges from archetypal Denver restaurant fare, abandonment oak-fired ovens and circuit of baby plates for what Delk describes as “Calypso cuisine,” a mélange of Carribean styles centered on the aliment of Trinidad & Tobago, but with Jamaican and added island influences befuddled in.
Jerk craven gets a smoky, ambrosial agenda from actuality slow-cooked over pimento wood.
Lo mein is a accepted Caribbean bowl acknowledgment to Chinese immigrants.
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Bake and bluff is a Trinidadian beach-shack favorite.
Callaloo, a buttery bouillon of kale and collard greens, has its origins with Africans who were brought to the Caribbean as slaves.
The Nose Ender, a abode cocktail fabricated with tequila, chrism of coconut, adhesive and serranos.
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If you’re a Jamaican jerk-chicken purist, you’ll be admiring by the smoky, ambrosial after-effects Messervey achieves by affable the bird over alien pimento wood, which gives the bowl its audible allspice flavor. Pineapple and plantains accomplish common appearances, and the Caribbean’s centuries of slaves, attached workers and immigrants from Africa, India and Asia acquaint the curry, chow mein and callaloo (a buttery bowl of broiled greens — kale and collards, in this case).
Most notable, though, is the “bake and shark,” a Trinidadian specialty of deep-fried bluff tucked into a brittle flatbread pocket. While abounding breed of bluff are advised off-limits by careful seafood eaters, Bang Up to the Elephant uses annoying dogfish, a breed accustomed by the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch. Added acceptable seafood will additionally be acclimated in the dish, depending on availability throughout the year.
The bar at Bang Up to the Elephant.
Part Mayan ruins, allotment berth town.
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“We’re activity for absolutely inauthentic,” jokes Delk. “This is absolutely interpreted.” But accurate touches like that pimento wood, the use of Caribbean chiles like Scotch Bonnets and Trinidad Scorpions (especially able in a Trini pepper booze that accompanies the broil and shark), and a advanced duke with close spices and back-scratch blends accomplish the card at Bang Up (as we’ve absitively to alarm it, for the account of brevity) unique.
Live ball at night, breakfast absolute Caribbean street-food favorites, and an adroit cocktail card (we assurance you’ve never had tequila alloyed with Andy Capp’s Hot Fries before) annular out the experience. Oh, and as accepted for Delk’s projects, the bathrooms are not to be absent (we’ll leave this one as a abruptness for you to discover).
The restaurant opens to the accessible at 5 p.m. this Saturday; the bistro will accessible for breakfast alpha at 7 a.m.on Monday, January 29. Signage and a mural accept yet to be added to the restaurant’s facade, so aloof attending for the baby-blue architecture with the French doors on Pearl Street aloof arctic of East 13th Avenue.
Mark Antonation is the Westword Aliment & Drink Editor. He got his alpha by bistro at and autograph about every restaurant on Federal Boulevard and continues to awning the busline area’s assorted all-embracing aliment scene, as able-bodied as the city’s bound alteration restaurant landscape.
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