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The aboriginal acknowledgment is to time.
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Djumbo starts by acclamation humanity’s abode in the world. As a toastmaster, he represents a Georgian attitude that makes bubbler and feasting into an about angelic act. With a aloft glass, he reminds the table of humanity’s annihilative attributes and how we are boring arresting the planet. He again reminds us that God placed this attempt afore us and that He additionally gave us time so that we could learn. He ends by attractive anniversary of us beeline in the eye. “I would like to booze to absolve the day, the month, the year, the minute we were anniversary born,” he says. “Let’s booze to the time God created animal beings.”
We accession our glasses and drink. There are four of us—two guests and Djumbo and his wife. We are sitting axial a baby abode on a abundance backbone in Western Georgia. The abode has been in Djumbo’s ancestors for four generations, and its board walls accept been ablaze atramentous by smoke and time. We are bistro about a small, low table, abutting to a copse stove area Djumbo’s wife Irena occasionally gets up to activity a new dish. The dishes are endless.
This blazon of meal is alleged a supra, and it best carefully translates to a feast. Supras can appear in occasions as breezy as a accumulation of accompany affair for banquet or as austere as a bells or a funeral. Guiding and watching over anniversary above-mentioned is a man like Djumbo—a tamada or toastmaster.
The table overflows with food. We eat for eat for bristles hours, but the dishes accumulate coming: mushrooms, potatoes, fish, cheese, breads, and skewers of barbecued pork with the fat still dripping. (Djumbo broiled the skewers over a baby alarm afterwards condiment them in a agreeable and addictive layered sauce.) Djumbo drives day-tripper buses for a living, and he arrive us to his home afterwards a day spent in the mountains chattering in Russian. Accommodation is acutely anchored in Georgia, and as we are guests, a above-mentioned was necessary.
Every fifteen minutes, Djumbo instructs us to accession our glasses. We are bubbler chacha, a acceptable Georgian booze that can be as able as 80 percent proof. Djumbo brewed the chacha himself, so its booze agreeable is anyone’s guess. Every booze of chacha is accompanied by a toast, and every acknowledgment is like a composition that lasts as continued as fifteen account and abode the better capacity in life.
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Djumbo’s speaks beautifully. He speaks of death, absent admired ones, peace, religion, and the crisis of the future. He uses attributes metaphors and discusses the affiliation amid Dostoevsky novels and the Bible. He laments the bribery of ability and talks about Stalin and whether anarchy is accessible after bloodshed.
“Even admitting you’re young, you accept absolutely absent bodies in your lives,” he says in a toast. “Young bodies additionally die. It’s too fast. Activity is but a casual dream.” We bang our glasses. “Never balloon them. It’s a sin to balloon them.” It is absurd to sit at Djumbo’s table and abide unmoved.
Djumbo is acclaimed in his region. Irina, his wife, says that sometimes hundreds of bodies accumulate to see him accord toasts. Families ask him to be the tamada at weddings and funerals, and he spends weeks talking to the accompany and ancestors to personalize and adapt his toasts.
John Wurdeman, an artist, restaurant owner, and administrator who has lived in Georgia for 21 years, says he has heard of toastmasters accepting paid for officiating a ceremony, but that it is rare. Abounding of them would be affronted by payment. “[Being a] tamada agency anybody respects you and considers your words and account important; generally they are men of access and stature,” he says. “So they would anticipate it’s beneath them if money was offered.”
Djumbo was already a assistant of Russian abstract and has an all-embracing ability of the classics. But his adventure to acceptable a administrator was abundantly informal. There are no administrator schools. While some institutions already offered training, the earlier and best clear man at a barbecue usually takes on the role. (Women acting as toastmasters is attenuate but a contempo development.) In cases such as Djumbo’s, their acceptability spreads by chat of aperture until they become acclaimed in their community. They absorb a different role: Good tamadas are both a adept of ceremonies and article abutting to a priest. Sometimes they accomplish jokes; sometimes they accommodate catharsis.
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Georgia is a baby country on the bend of abounding things. It borders Turkey, Armenia, Europe, and Russia. It is a aerial country, and for abounding years, best of its bodies lived in high, alien areas. But it was additionally allotment of the Silk Road, the land-based trading avenue from China to Europe.
Wurdeman says the country’s acrid ambiance enabled the supra’s axial role. “Georgians accept this cipher of chivalry,” he explains. “There were acutely lots of wars activity on; there were betraying roads. Bodies were walking continued distances to get alkali to barter or to booty messages. The abstraction of actuality affable and compassionate to a adventurer is abiding actual deep.”
He explains that accommodation is admired alike in acute circumstances. “If a Georgian man showed up at Chechen man’s home, and he bare advice as a guest, alike if there had been an barter of claret amid the families, the Chechen family—because of this Caucasian code—would still accept them and assure them.”
Despite actuality invaded and active endless times, best afresh by the Soviet Union, Georgia has preserved its ability and traditions. Darra Goldstein, a assistant at Williams College who has authored a book on Georgia, believes supras and tamadas are a above acumen why. During some supras, for example, Georgians access into ad-lib polyphonic singing—an age-old choral adapted address area absolute melodies hauntingly associate with anniversary other. “It’s a way of canonizing history and the acumen of Georgian culture,” she says of supras.
“It is absolutely absolutely a affair to say we are Georgians. This ability be Soviet Georgia; they ability accept ascendancy over us. But we are an age-old culture,” she states. “Our accent predates Russian, our Christianity predates Russian, and we had a renaissance continued afore Western Europe did. We are an age-old culture.”
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Even as Georgians leave the hills for cities and bung into globalization, Goldstein believes toastmasters will abide basic to Georgian culture. “This attitude has endured, but it doesn’t feel stagnant,” she explains. “It doesn’t feel like performa. It feels like it is still a basic allotment of how bodies accomplish feasts.”
Wurdeman says that adolescent bodies in Georgia tend to conduct supras abnormally than their elders. There is beneath accent on the abundance of aliment and added on the quality; adolescent bodies are additionally added acceptable to acquiesce women to act as tamadas. He thinks the supra’s adaptability and improvisational attributes will accumulate it alive: While toastmasters about consistently altercate death, history, and peace, every barbecue changes depending on who is presiding.
At the end of my barbecue with Djumbo, he addresses us individually. The night has been long, and the altercation has ranged from moments of alertness to moments of quiet contemplation.
“You’re wonderful. You are blessed and beautiful, and I ambition you ablaze futures in your lives. That you accomplish all your dreams,” he says. He talks about the dreams we aggregate with him, and again ends with a final lesson. “I achievement for beatitude in your lives,” he says. “I do not ambition for you to accept abundant money, because money alone charcoal people. May you abridgement for nothing. May you be fulfilled. May you be as blessed in activity as you are appropriate now.”
For a final time, we accession our glasses and toast.
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