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Kevin Stent

The Peranakan affair extends to the adornment at Little Penang on The Terrace.

For the accomplished seven years, Little Penang has been wowing Wellingtonians with that attenuate Chinese-Malay comestible admixture – the Peranakan (or Nyonya) cuisine of Penang.

Owners Tee Chiew Phie and her bedmate Keith are themselves Peranakans from Penang and now, in their second, rather above purpose-built restaurant on the Terrace, they extend the Peranakan affair to the décor.

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Patterned tiles, air-conditioned underfoot, awning the floor. Rather optimistically, the restaurant’s abundant doors are flung advanced accessible to bless Wellington’s about wholly non-existent close steaminess, so on canicule like this you’ll appetite a table at the far end of the continued room, as my accompaniment and I usually do. 

READ MORE:* Restaurant review: Kubo by Leslie’s comes to Wellington* Restaurant review: aesthetic dining at Pomelo Bar & Kitchen* Restaurant review: The Old Quarter is thoroughly modern

As a nod to the Anglophile leanings of the Victorian Peranakans, the tables accept Malaysian colonial-style white marble tops. Dividing the levels is a adapted board awning with a adorned panel, but the detached abundance is a museum-quality affectation of aboriginal Peranakan porcelain, blithely floral, the brand of which accept continued back abolished from the aged shops of Melaka and Penang (only to be replaced these canicule by laughably big-ticket reproductions). A distinct aged Peranakan tea basin ability nowadays advertise for over $500; displayed in a alternation of frames about these walls is an absolute banquet set.

Replicating the Penang menu from Dixon Street is great, back there are assertive Nyonya abstract I can never canyon up.

One would be the Hokkien-influenced Lobak: five-spiced pork sausage meat, formed up central beancurd bark and crucially, aflame rather than fried.

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With Taukua Sumbat, they baffle attitude by adulation flavour from tofu. A big block is larboard in the abysmal fryer until well-skinned and leathery, again cut on the bent to acknowledge the custardy, chapped insides. Disconnected allotment and cucumber are added for texture, again the accomplished ski-jump is actually slathered in house-made peanut booze and brindled with broiled shallot. Price: $6.90.

A admeasurement of the actuality of this aliment is Tee’s compound for Inche Kabin (Nyonya Fried Chicken), which contains 23 ingredients.

You apperceive it charge be the real Penang food Tee grew up with, back it reveals the attenuate Thai influences which distinguish Penang’s Nyonya aliment from the added association of Peranakans in Melaka bottomward south. Most obviously, there’s the alloyed brainstorm bowl Mee Siam (Siam actuality the old name for Thailand). Addition is Kerabu Salad, a arresting sweet-sour mix of disconnected mango, pineapple, cucumber and apple.  Yet addition is the ever-popular Otak-Otak, a aflame angle bowl aggressive by Thailand’s Hor Mok Pla.

From Penang’s Indian association comes the alleged Indian Salad, or Pasembur. If you don’t appetite the abounding salad, you can consistently adjustment its brilliant basic as a side – deliciously brittle deep-fried vegetable fritters with bendable autogenous batter.

Kapitan is a creamy, coconutty, lemongrass-scented back-scratch whose colonial-sounding name reveals an access of the Hainanese, aforetime the cooks to the British. It’s one of several curries which can be ordered as allotment of a Nasi Lemak, that breakfast accumulating of attic rice, cucumber, peanuts, sambal and broiled anchovies which represents one of actual few overlaps amid Little Penang and the all-encompassing card of 34 added Malaysian restaurants about Wellington.

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Mee Goreng and Char Koay Teow are additionally allotment of that all-encompassing menu. For the account of cartoon comparisons, adjustment Little Penang’s Char Koay Teow and agenda the wok breath, the flavour antithesis and different capacity like the tiny cubes of pork crackling.

During this amusement period, there accept been lunchtime queues out on to The Terrace. Thankfully the account is able and fast. Once the aperture furore has settled, Tee promises a classy a la carte card for the evenings.

44 The TerracePh: (04) 390 8844No liquor licence, no BYO.Open for cafeteria and dinner, Mon-Sat. Closed Sun.Price ambit of mains: $14.90-$16.90.Cost: $54 for two (excluding drinks).

Food: ★★★★★Service: ★★★★★Ambience: ★★★★★Wine list: N/A

 – Your Weekend

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